Patternmaking for Fashion Design, 5th Edition

Helen Joseph-Armstrong

Patternmaking for Fashion Design, 5th Edition

By Helen Joseph-Armstrong
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Helen Joseph-Armstrong
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For an undergraduate course in Patternmaking.

Renowned for its comprehensive coverage, exceptional illustrations, and clear instructions, this #1 text offers detailed yet easy-to-understand explanations of the essence of patternmaking. Hinging on a recurring theme that all designs are based on one or more of the three major patternmaking and design principles–dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring–it provides students with all the relevant information necessary to create design patterns with accuracy regardless of their complexity.


  • Modern, cutting-edge sketches and designs.  
  • Ribbing added to the knit section of Chapter 27.
  • More materials on children's wear and swim wear.
  • Knock offs.
  • Fitting corrections—Includes fitting corrections for the basic patterns.
  • A unique section on patternmaking for bias-cut garments.  Illustrates a procedure that guides the patternmaker in adjusting design patterns to offset stretch; integrated into chapters covering cowls and bias-cut dresses.
  • Revised drafting instructions and standard measurement charts. Provides a revised procedure for drafting the front and back bodice and the sleeve to reflect the measurements of the newer model forms.
  • Constructed support for strapless designs—Expands upon discussion and includes an additional strapless foundation.
  • Bias-cut dresses—Emphasises bias-cut dresses that cling to the figure, as influenced by Madeline Vionnett.
  • Advanced design projects—Adds one or two advanced designs to selected chapters.
  • A practical introduction to patternmaking—Opens the book with discussions on the workroom, the model form and measuring techniques, and how to draft the basic pattern set.
  • Complete coverage of the three steps of design patterns: dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring.
  • Chapter projects—Includes a fashion sketch for each project with an analysis of the design, and focuses on pattern plot and manipulation for developing the patterns.
Table of contents
  • 1. Patternmaking Essentials for the Workroom
  • 2. Form Measurements and Figure Analysis
  • 3. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set
  • 4. Dart Manipulation. (Principle #1)
  • 5. Designing with Darts (Tuck-Darts, Pleats, Flare and Gathers)
  • 6. Stylelines
  • 7. Added Fullness (Principle #2)
  • 8. Yokes, Flanges, Pin-Tucks, and Pleat Tucks
  • 9. Contouring (Principle #3)
  • 10. Collars
  • 11. Built-up Necklines
  • 12. Cowls
  • 13. Skirts/Circles and Cascades
  • 14. Sleeves
  • 15. Kimono, Raglan, Drop Shoulder, Exaggerated Armholes
  • 16. Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings
  • 17. Plackets and Pockets
  • 18. Dresses without Wasteline Seams (Based on Torso Foundation)
  • 19. Strapless Foundations and Interconstruction
  • 20. Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Dresses
  • 21. Shirts
  • 22. Women’s Jackets and Coats
  • 23. Men’s Wear
  • 24. Capes and Hoods
  • 25. Knock-Off Copying Ready-Made Designs
  • 26. Pants
  • 27. Knits — Stretch and Shrinkage Factors
  • 28. Knit Top Foundations
  • 29. Activewear for Dance and Exercise
  • 30. Swimwear
  • 31. Introduction to Childrenswear
  • 32. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set: Measurement Taking, Standard Measurement Charts
  • 33. Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts
  • 34. Dresses and Jumpers
  • 35. Tops
  • 36. Pants and Jumpsuits
  • 37. Bodysuits, Leotards, Mailott, and Swimwear